The Subtle Blush of Summer
By Barbara Hay, Certified Sommelier
Ocean Wine & Spirits

As the weather warms up, the kitchen moves from inside to outside, and grills across the country light up once more. Often, fish, chicken, steak, pork, and lamb get fired up together on the same night, creating a magnificent feast for diners and a nightmare for the wine connoisseur. While a big heady Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the finest compliments to a juicy steak, it is hardly appealing in ninety-degree weather.

In summer, people often opt for lighter wines, and most often, for chilled wine. But does this mean you have to drink a white with your steak? There is in fact a third option out there, which many wine buffs have shrugged off, saying they don’t “drink pink.” While a high-scoring cult wine may offer gobs of this and layers of that, a well-chilled rosé captures the summer sun, whether reflected off the Mediterranean at a plaza café along the Côte d’Azur or off the sand on the local Boardwalk. A true Rosé is often off-dry to dry in nature and displays appropriate fresh fruit flavors that lean toward the strawberry and raspberry side of the fruit spectrum.

Contrary to popular belief, Rosés do not come from a blend of red and white wines. In fact, as few as twenty years ago, many restaurateurs would blend red and white wines in the kitchen to make their rosés! The true vin rosé is created using the Saignée method, which involves bleeding off a portion of red wine after a short period of contact with the grape skins which give red wines their color. Rosés are produced primarily from Grenache, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Carignan, and Sangiovese grapes.

Rosés should be served chilled to bring out all of the magical delights of flavor that makes rosé wines the typical drink of the elite. The typical fruity taste of these wines also ideally tames the palate for spicy foods. Although styles may vary, a smooth flavor teamed with the sweet tang adds to the uniqueness of rosé wines, making them a festive addition to any summer get-together.

Think Pink: Top Rosé Picks

1. Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare, California
In the EU, winemakers are up in arms over a recent draft ruling (to be voted upon by EU members on June 19) that would allow blending of white wines into red to make rosé; they fear the law will lead to oceans of pink plonk. Luckily, however, we Americans seem to have no such qualms, so Randall Grahm can add a hefty dollop of rich Grenache Blanc and Roussanne to the red grapes Grenache, Cinsaut, and Syrah, giving the wine’s bright, spiced-cherry flavors a broad, smooth canvas to play on. Take that, Europe. About $20

2. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône Rosé
Rhône Valley, France. This is a great starter wine from a big and well-known producer. All the characteristics you can expect from good, dry pink wine: abundant summer fruits on the nose and palate. This one is good with or without food. About $13

3. Jaboulet Côtes du Rhône Parallèle 45 Rosé
Rhône Valley, France. This is a classic French Rosé from the Rhône region. This is a vibrant Rosé with dominating flavors of raspberries and strawberries; there is a kick of spice on the finish. Three grape varietals are blended to make this Rosé—Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. A great complement to grilled fish or roasted veggies. About $11

4. Chateau Miraval Pink Floyd Rosé
Côtes de Provence, France. Talk about a wine made for relaxed summer fun and spontaneous barbecues! Intense fruity, yeasty nose. The palate is full, packed with lively fruit like pear, green apple. Ending with more lip-smacking fruit and clean-cut acidity, this is a deliciously fresh, appetizing rosé. One to relish with salads. About $20

5. Eye of the Toad Rosé of Pinot Noir
Sonoma County, California. The color is a beautiful pink with a hint of “Beaujolais blue.” This wine has a nose of rose petals and violets. Spice and pepper bring out the wonderful wild strawberry flavors. A wine that is great with sushi and wasabi or spicy Thai food. About $12

6. Robert Oatley Rosé of Sangiovese
Mudgee, Australia. Eric Asimov, Chief Wine Critic of the New York Times, chose this as the #1 rosé in his “Wines of the Times” article on June 9th. This graceful rosé offers a nice reticence to its leafy watermelon and strawberry flavors as they rise slowly through the finish. It is bone dry with lovely texture and balanced, savory mineral flavors along with restrained flavors: a tangy presence and an inviting texture. About $19

7. El Coto de Rioja Rosado
Rioja, Spain. The El Coto de Rioja Rosado has an intense pink color and offers a smooth palate feel, with the dominant flavors of cherry and raspberry. This is a fresh and lively wine with a semi-dry finish. A terrific choice for grilled fare, pasta salads, fish and summer salads. About $13

8. Concannon Righteously Rosé
Central Coast, California. This is a lively and floral wine, scented with strawberries and rose petals. Cool stainless steel fermentation maximizes the floral notes and retains the crisp acidity. A touch of barrel fermentation for a portion of the lot gives this wine a creamy mid-palate. With a hint of sweetness, this is a lovely picnic wine. About $11

9. El Coto de Rioja Rosado
Rioja, Spain The El Coto de Rioja Rosado has an intense pink color and offers a smooth palate feel, with the dominant flavors of cherry and raspberry. This is a fresh and lively wine with a semi-dry finish. A terrific choice for grilled fare, pasta salads, fish and summer salads. About $13

10. Halter Ranch Rose GSM
Paso Robles, California. The 2007 GSM Rosé blends the three classic varieties of the Southern Rhône Valley: 56% Grenache, 34% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre. Produced by draining free run juice from crushed black grapes – the Saigneé method – this full-bodied dry rosé boasts a brilliantly vivid, fruit-basket aroma of fresh-picked raspberries, strawberries and red cherries, with added zest from a savory, cracked pepper spiciness. On the full-bodied palate, the wine’s spicy, red-fruit flavors are further enlivened by crisp acidity and a pronounced streak of minerality in the long, refreshing finish. About $17

Here Come the Reds

Okay, there are plenty of red wines that can be chilled, and are often better chilled for your grilling (“Chilled” meaning cellar temperature, 50-60 degrees). What makes some reds chill well and others turn bitter? The secret is in tannin, a component from the grapes’ skins that gives red wines their gripping, tongue-drying texture. Chilling amplifies the effect and can create that bitter taste in some wines. Those with less-intense tannin quantities can actually benefit from chilling, because it can pump up their fruitiness and make them even more refreshing. If it’s too cold, you will lose many nuances, but if it’s too warm, you’ll lose both nuance and flavor.

If you insist, there are a few reds that can take the place of a cool rosé on a warm summer day. Beaujolais, made from Gamay grapes, is a great wine for grilling and chilling, but if this is too light for you, a Chianti is an excellent accompaniment to just about anything; it’s not too light for a steak or too heavy for pasta salad. Another favorite of mine is Tempranillo, which is festive and fun with dry, spicy, focused tastes. It goes great with curried foods and barbecued spare ribs. Here are a few more red wine picks that you can chill slightly for an outdoor feast:

1. Antinori Santa Cristina
Tuscany, Italy. A blend of Sangiovese and 10% Merlot. We drank this by the pool on a sweltering day and it can certainly be described as “cooling.” Ruby red in colour, with an intense bouquet of mature fruits on the nose, and on the palate well-structured, harmonious, soft and very pleasing. When chilled, it retains a grapey quality with a little bite at the end, with nice tannins, good acidity and a smooth, calm, relaxed taste that was perfect for a day off.

2. A to Z Pinot Noir
Oregon. A subtle, earthy, elegant option, this wine has moderately-deep color and a tannin profile to match. The dark spices on the nose and palate complement the flavors you would expect from a good Oregon Pinot Noir: blackberry, raspberry, black cherry and earth. Perfect for pork, poultry, salmon, and other light meals. Takes on a snappy cranberry-cherry flavor when chilled. About $22

3. Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages
Beaujolais, France. This brilliant garnet wine is bright and fresh, with ripe, supple, crushed strawberry flavors underscored by zesty nuances of peppercorns, gentle tannins, and a clean acidity, finishing on a succulent, refreshing note. Grapey and juicy, it retains flavors when chilled and is perfect for spicier grilled fare such as barbecue or sausage. About $12

4. Rancho Zabaco Dry Creek Zinfandel
Sonoma County, California. This Zinfandel is big and chewy with concentrated, explosive blackberry and cherry fruit flavors. The addition of Petite Sirah contributes black pepper spice. The mouthfeel is long and rich, with soft supple tannins matched with the sweet vanilla toast from the barrels. When chilled, the dark berry flavors complement grilled steaks and burgers.

5. Bodegas Lan Reserva 2004
Rioja, Spain. A Wine Spectator Top 100, this wine blends Tempranillo, Grenache, Mazuelo to create a silky texture that carries expressive flavors of black plum, violet, licorice and smoke in this focused, balanced red. Has good intensity yet remains vibrant and accessible. Brilliant ripe black cherry red color with good depth. When chilled, it retains its fruity aromas with elegant nuances of fine wood and pairs, and goes beautifully with barbecued and grilled steak and lamb. About $15